Wednesday, June 27, 2018

On Our Way home

Edinburgh, Scotland to Liverpool, Oxford, Gatwick, England

We left Edinburgh on Saturday (May 19th) morning and took three days to get to London and catch our flight home from Gatwick airport. First stop as we crossed into England was Alnwick castle. Pronounce 'annick' by the natives, though they call the nearby river the 'Aln.' Hmmmm.  It also happens to be the castle where many of the outside scenes in Harry Potter were shot. We didn't tell the kids any of this and just waited for them to recognize it. They didn't. Though to be fair it doesn't look a lot like the Hogwarts you actually see in the movie, only if you are good enough to recognize small parts of the castle. The castle walls where the broom flying lessons are held, the archway that Hermione stomps her way through and where Hagrid drags a Christmas tree, the inner yard where Harry and Ron crash land Mr Weasley's car. What we didn't expect was that the castle is actually still the residence of the Duke of Northumberland and we toured some of the rooms where the family resides when they are there. Because of course it isn't their only home! It was a little surreal after seeing all the castle ruins over the past two weeks to then walk though a currently inhabited one, complete with flat screen tv, beanbag chairs, and Coca Cola in the immense library.

From there we moved on to the ruins at Corbridge Roman Town and then to Hadrian's wall! I have wanted to see Hadrian's wall since I learned of its existence, which, sadly was when I studied Roman history as an adult with my children. We were able to walk along it for awhile, though our time was a bit limited that day, but we could also see a long stretch of it from the road as we drove. And the ruins at Corbridge were amazing. At the end of our day we were in Liverpool, clear on the other side of the island from Edinburgh and hardly a direct route to London, but Fionnula is a huge Beatles fan and so we had a mission to accomplish in Liverpool.

Sunday we really did try to go to church. It was our last Sunday of our year of travel, and we arrived at the ward building only to find it locked and deserted. Presumably it was stake conference somewhere. With no real way to find the meeting, we went ahead with what was to be our post church plans and took a self-designed and -guided, driving tour of the essential Beatles sites in Liverpool. This resulted in a series of fantastic photos of Fionnula posing in front of each of the band members' childhood homes, as well as at the Penny Lane road sign, the Strawberry Fields gate, and a statue of the whole band down by the docks. It was a lot of fun and Fionn was absolutely thrilled. We finished our day in a tiny, extremely basic, one room rental in Oxford, where Ronan and Liam slept sideways in a double bed, feet dangling off the edge, in order to get maximum bed width and avoid accidentally touching one another in their sleep (just in case there was a blanket buffer down the center though).


Monday, we ate a giant English breakfast at a cafe downtown and then explored Oxford for a few hours. We toured Christ Church college and cathedral, including a few more Harry Potter filming sites. The Divinity School at the Bodleian Library is both the hospital wing and the ballroom dance class, the entrance hall at Christ Church College is the entrance hall at Hogwarts and Hogwarts' great hall is inspired by the dining hall also at Christ Church. We finally found ourselves a candy store that sold sherbet lemons  and learned that they aren't, as we had thought, exactly the same thing as lemon drops just with a different name, rather they are similar to lemon drops but with a center of tart, fizzy stuff that pours out once it has disintegrated enough in your mouth. We watched rowing teams practicing and researched how the Cambridge college system works (I think I finally have a good grip on this, its basically the same thing as the house system at Hogwarts, but on a larger scale). We also learned that its cheaper to go to Cambridge than many US schools. We finished up our explorations of Oxford by driving by a house with a giant shark diving through the roof and then headed on to our bed and breakfast near Gatwick airport. Where ate a weird dinner of leftover foods that we still carried with us and instant noodle pots we picked up at the store, turned in our rental car, and repacked and weighed everyone's luggage.


Then Tuesday we flew nine hours straight from London to Denver Colorado, where my father met our seriously late plane and where we experienced the depravity of an American public bathroom. But it was great to feel the Colorado sunshine again and to find my sweatshirt still stashed under the passenger seat in our very own, very spacious, Honda Pilot (Olaf), and to drive home to Mom's on the right hand side of the road!

Friday, June 15, 2018

Driving around Scotland

Edinburgh, Scotland

For our last week in Scotland we had a rental car, and it was glorious. Since leaving the states we have rarely had our own car to get around in and while we really have loved the easy availability of public transportation, particularly in Europe, we will never again take for granted the luxury of not having to carry on our bodies everything we might need for our entire day out or the simpleness of getting where we want to go without consulting time tables and bus routes. Just get in a car and go. And we did just that for our final week in Scotland and Europe.

Stirling Castle
First we extended our exploration of castles and palaces to those a little further afield from our base in Edinburgh. We started with Linlithgow Palace,  and Blackness and Doune Castles. I don't think I could ever tire of visiting Castles. Linlithgow, of course, was a palace and not a castle, so no real military aspect to it but mostly a fancy schmancy royal residence, specifically this was the palace where Mary Queen of Scots was actually born. It was huge too, with lots of narrow hallways and spiral staircases and was generally a lot of fun to explore. Blackness was much smaller, but was also almost strictly military and sits right on the Firth of Forth (which I love to say), so seeing it included a bit of much appreciated beach walking. The gun holes carved through impossibly deep walls were also a highlight. Doune castle happens to have been a primary filming location for Monty Python's Holy Grail so they offer an audio guide narrated by Terry Jones that not only gives the history of the castle but also points out where scenes from the movie were filmed and is generally entertaining. They also sell coconuts in the gift shop if anyone wants to re enact the knights galloping around the countryside. Our last castle in Scotland was Stirling Castle, which has been restored with painted walls and ceilings while all the others we visited were maintained as ruins. The real highlight here for me was the Stirling Heads, huge wooden medallions with heads carved into them that once decorated some of the ceilings in the castle. In one room they have covered the ceiling with replicated heads and I am still annoyed with myself for not spending more time looking up at them there, but I did spend more time in the gallery where the actual surviving heads are on display.

Kelpies
In addition to castles though we used our car to get ourselves out to see the magnificently creepy Kelpies, the William Wallace memorial, the Stirling bridge, Abbotsford, Rosslyn Chapel and best of all Glencoe and Glenfinnan in the Highlands.  The Kelpies are impossibly huge horse head sculptures (30 metres high Google says). Apparently kelpies aren't actually horses at all but malevolent water spirits that often appear as horses and lead humans to watery deaths. Who knew? Well, to be fair, my kids did. Abbotsford was Sir Walter Scott's home, mostly exciting because of the gorgeous gardens and surrounding park. Rosslyn is an amazing little chapel which we got to with only 20 minutes to closing and so had a whirlwind introduction to, but will have to return to someday. Probably when I go back to see those Stirling heads again. And also Holyroodhouse. Holyrood is the current palace of the Royal Family when they are in Scotland and the ancient (well not so ancient, but still going way back) home of the Scottish Royal Family, because even though we were right there several times during our stay in Edinburgh, we never tried to actually tour it until our very last day when it was closed! For the Royal Wedding they said. Which wasn't happening in Scotland so I don't know why they closed it. Frustrating all around. This is why sometimes more careful planning is to your advantage I guess. Anyway, Glencoe and Glenfinnan were our biggest driving day. It was a good 4 hour drive up to Glenfinnan, where we picninicked and hiked and generally just admired the amazing viaduct made all the more awesome by the fact that in the Harry Potter movies the Hogwarts Express crosses over it! We did see a train go by, but it was cleverly disguised as any ole boring train.
Glencoe

Our last day in Scotland was spent back in Edinburgh and back on the city buses visiting downtown galleries and parks, listening to street musicians, and completely missing Holyrood. Dang it. We really loved Scotland and will miss it, but we sincerely plan to return someday. Maybe I can convince my entire family to live there with me. We will explore castles every day. Maybe every week.